A Walk on the Lachine Canal

The Lachine Canal extends from Old Montreal to Lachine; these photographs were taken in Lachine. The early explorers thought they had discovered China, and gave the area the name "La Chine," China...

St. Agnes Church, from the Lachine Canal, in winter.

One of the oldest Anglican Churches in Quebec, St. Stephen's Church is just off the canal.

Molsons at Mount Royal Cemetery

The rusted doors to the Molson mausoleum with their famous, once rather erotic, depiction of naked women angels just above the Molson name. The Molson family mausoleum, located at Mount Royal Cemetery here in Montreal, is modelled after their original brewery. The Molson family is prominent in Montreal and Quebec history, now including the endowment for the John Molson School of Business at Concordia University. (Note: Last week I noticed that the old ornate doors of naked mermaids, or are they angels? have been removed and plain steel doors installed.)

St. Michael's, Mile End, Montreal (three)

Stephen Morrissey and the guide.

Inside photographs of St. Michael's.

St. Michael's, Mile End, Montreal (two)

St. Michael's seen from Mount Royal.

St. Michael's seen from St. Urbain Street.

Inside St. Michael's.

An upstairs room at St. Michael's.

St. Michael's Church, Mile End, Montreal (one)

St. Michael's is difficult to photograph because of the size of the church and that it is surrounded by residential and commercial buildings.In this photograph, the dome of the church has recently been cleaned.

The church entrance from the street.

As you enter, Father Luke Callaghan's name can be seen written on the ceiling, with the names of other people who were prominent at St. Michael's at that time.

The inside of the church, facing the entrance.

Another view of the church interior.

The famous stained glass windows on either side of the dome.

A painting of St. Michael on the done of St. Michael's Church.

Notes on St. Michael's Church, Mile End, Montreal (two)

Apologies to the photographer; I found this photograph on Facebook and will credit
the photographer or remove it on request

As in a previous visit, the church was open to the public during the day. Inside the church, there was only a student guide, an older man washing the floors, and myself. I sat in one of the pews close to the altar and thought about Father Luke; his great accomplishment was certainly building and running this church. St Michael’s has a seating capacity for 1400 people and when additional seating had to be used, folding chairs were placed in the center aisle. St. Michael’s was once the largest English-speaking parish in the province of Quebec with 1,809 families attending the church and close to 15,000 parishoners.

Father Luke Callaghan was a unique man; indeed, he was a visionary. He helped raise the money to build St. Michael’s, he was instrumental in the choice of architecture for the church, as well as the choice of stained glass windows and interior decorations. Looking at the paintings by Guido Nincheri that decorate the interior of St. Michael’s, you will see some of the most interesting church art in Quebec. There is also the marble facing on the walls, and a painting on the interior of the church dome of St. Michael the Archangel. It seems no expense was spared in the building and interior decoration of this incredible church!

I used to think that St. Michael’s was in some ways a folly of Father Luke’s, as the church is a copy of Hagia Sophia (Greek for Holy Wisdom) in Constantinople (present-day Istanbul), Turkey. However, it isn’t unusual to copy famous churches on a reduced scale. For instance, Mary, Queen of the World Cathedral, located on Boulevard-René Lévesque (formerly Dorchester Boulevard) near the Queen Elizabeth Hotel, is a smaller version of St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican.

Hagia Sofia began as a church in Constantinople; it was rededicated in 537 AD and was (and probably still is) one of the largest churches in the world. In 1453 Constantinople and Hagia Sofia fell into Muslim hands. Constantinople became Istanbul and Hagia Sofia became a mosque. In 1935, Kemal Ataturk, the reformer of modern-day secular Turkey, converted Hagia Sofia into a museum. Recently Pope Benedict XVI visited Istanbul and Hagia Sophia and the building still resonates with historical and spiritual importance.

There must be a “story” as to why Father Luke decided to build St. Michael’s church in a Greek Orthodox design. There is really no other church in Quebec like St. Michael’s with its turret just to the right and behind the poured concrete dome. The student guide informed me that the turret, which is 160 feet high, was originally the church’s bell tower but this use had to be abandoned as they were afraid the turret might collapse. The copper dome outside has also recently been cleaned, so it now has a shiny, almost golden appearance when reflecting the bright summer sun.

Inside of the church, on the inside of the dome, as one stands and looks up, there is a painting of Michael the Archangel, large wings behind him, standing on the dragon that he has just slain, The painting is magnificent, set in a circle in the dome, then there are two outer circles: the first outer circle seems to contain many faces whose significance is not apparent. Then, after some patterned decoration, there is a third circle of angels each with a distinct personality. Also, a repeated pattern of decoration is found throughout the church, the pattern is a painting of a dragon with a sword thrust through it, no doubt the work of St. Michael. The art is original and inspired and there are many other delightful embellishments throughout the church.

Additionally, there are two very large half rosette stained glass windows facing each other on the east and west sides of the church. There is a kind of shamrock design to the eight outer windows, then nine large windows are set between these, and a final shamrock at the bottom, all in a huge semi-circle. The same window design is found on either side of the church, it is non-representational, and almost art nouveau in appearance. A traditional stained glass window would have been out of place in the church.

If you stand at the front of the church, at the altar, you can look across the whole expanse of the church and pews, to the second floor balcony where the organist would sit, and more pews, and then a large round stained glass window of eight shamrock patterns circling a center design. When the sunlight enters the church these window are a veritable glowing fountain of light. It is unfortunate that the church itself, perhaps because of its size and that the windows are set so high on the walls, is in relative darkness most of the time, and this gives it a rather gloomy feeling. The altar is unfortunately also in darkness because of the absence of natural lighting, but I assume there is auxiliary lighting that can illuminate the entire church.

Again, as you stand at the altar and look across the church, seeing the balcony and the main floor, there is a painted decoration on the wall between the floors, of a repeated pattern of a dragon impaled by a sword. The sword, of course, also suggests a cross and the dragon or serpent reminds one of the serpent in the Garden of Eden, symbolic of man’s fallen state. The interior condition of the church, the painted walls and ceiling, is still very good, suggesting that the art may be frescoes, or alternatively that there has been little water or other damage over the years. The dimensions for size of the windows is suggested by the size of the dome: the half dome measures 52 feet in diameter, the full dome 75 feet in diameter, with 24 windows.

On the main floor, at the entrance to the church, there are three doors, with a glass semi-circle of shamrocks over each door, almost like transoms. If you stand just inside of the church entrance and look upwards at the ceiling, you will see written in Latin some names, among them “Pope Benedicto XV”, “Archbishop Paulo Bruchesi”, and “Luca Callaghan.” Other names can also be found in the other groupings of names on the ceiling.

Father Luke Callaghan was a great administrator, a pastor who guided his many parishoners and constructed and then ran St. Michael’s for twenty-one years, from 1910 to 1931. I am not personally convinced that copying Hagia Sofia was the greatest idea, but it was certainly an original idea. Sitting in St. Michael’s that July day, I had a growing admiration for Father Luke. His sights were set on greatness, and he accomplished a great feat in building St. Michael’s Church. He was a scholar, had earned a Ph.D. in Rome, and had an important posting at the Archbishop’s Palace in Montreal on LaGauchetiere Street. He is a man who accomplished much because of his intelligence, his commitment to hard work, his sense of responsibility to his congregation and the Church. Not as colourful as his older brother, Father Martin Callaghan, he was nevertheless a man of great substance and determination.

Notes on St. Michael’s Church, Mile End, Montreal (one)

Fr. Luke Callaghan

Harvey Shepherd, writing in The Gazette, on 26 July and again on 21 September 2003, informed readers of tours of St. Michael’s Church available to the public. St. Michael’s is a landmark in Montreal, visible from several miles away at the lookout on Mount Royal facing towards the Plateau and the east end of the city. The church is built in the style of Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, Turkey. St. Michael’s is a large domed structure with an entrance façade and minaret on the east side to the rear of the church building. Shepherd writes, “Back in the early 20^th century, it [St. Michael’s] was said to be the largest English-speaking parish in Quebec, with more than 1,800 families or close to 15,000 parishoners, mainly Irish in origin.” Of course, after reading this article with its offer of a tour, I soon visited St. Michael’s Church, which I had so far only seen from the outside. As you enter, on the far left side on the ceiling, is Father Luke’s name written in Latin. St. Michael’s now serves a predominantly Polish congregation. The church was built in 1914-1915 with funds largely raised by Father Luke Callaghan.

Aristide Beaugrand-Champagne, the architect of St. Michael’s, achieved what was then highly innovative in his design and construction of the dome of the church. The magnificent dome is constructed with reinforced concrete, a first in Montreal until duplicated, but on a much larger scale, at St. Joseph’s Oratory on Queen Mary Road. The dome at St. Michael’s has a diameter of 23 metres and is flanked by two half domes; covering the nave that reaches 40 metres from the centre of the dome are two arches with a diameter of 16.5 metres each. The inside of the church seats 1400 people and in Father Luke’s day simultaneous services were held in a large basement auditorium, seating over 1200 people, because of the capacity attendance inside the church. Incidentally, Beaugrand-Champagne also designed the award winning Chalet de la Montagne, facing south on Mount Royal and overlooking the downtown of the city. Now called Parc du Mont Royal, the design of this prominent park, inaugurated in 1876 and located in central Montreal, is by Frederick Law Olmstead who also designed Central Park in New York City. Original art work at St. Michael’s was created by Guido Nincheri, who was born in Prato, Italy, in 1885. In 1914 Nincheri moved to Montreal where he and his wife lived until his death. Nincheri’s first large commission in Montreal was to create the frescoes and stained-glass windows that decorate the dome and walls of St. Michael’s Church. The stained-glass windows, circling the entire circumference of the dome, flood the entire church with light and colour. When standing on the upper pulpit overlooking the interior of the church—as I have done—one is overwhelmed with sunlight and the magnificence of this building. Later, between 1928 and 1951, Nincheri designed the interior of the prestigious St-Léon-de-Westmount Church on Boulevard de Maisonneuve in Westmount. Although Nincheri lived for a few years in the United States he considered Montreal his home and was buried at Notre Dame des Neiges Cemetery after his death in 1973. St. Michael’s Church deserves some much-needed restoration work and the church could then be used, at least part-time, as a concert hall. It is a remarkable edifice—both magnificent and majestic—and well worth visiting on a Sunday morning when open to the public. I am grateful to Mr. Kevin Cohalan, the Executive Director of the Volunteer Bureau of Montreal, who was instrumental in organizing the summer-long open-house at St. Michael’s which was an invaluable opportunity to visit the church pretty much at one’s own convenience during daytime hours. I was given, generously, carte blanche to go where I liked in the church on my two visits there last summer.

Blaise Cendrars Cut Up (four)

Gibet et de la Roue

Paris, 1913.

Avec les gestes piteux et le the oaths of the cardplayers in the

sous la pluie

Bella, Agnès, Catherine et la ne

Et celle, la mère de mon amoucles who paced nervously up and

looked at me as he passed

Il y a des cris de sirène qui me heart tears rise

Là-bas en Mandchourie un mistress…

dans un accouchement and,

Je voudrain depths of a bordello

Je voudrain n’avoir jamais fait

Motley

Like my life

And my life doesn’t keep me a full speed

Shawl

And the whole of Europe see

gold wheels whirling madly along in

universe

______________________________
Cut up of “Prose of the Transsiberian and of Little Jeanne of France”, by Blaise Cendrars

Thomas D'Arcy McGee at Cote des Neiges Cemetery

The row of mausoleums, McGee's is second from the left...

Blaise Cendrars Cut Up (three)

The wings of our seven sins

And all the trains are the devil’s cup and ball

The poultry yard

The modern world

Speed is useless

In the modern world

Distances are too great

And at the end of the trip it's terrible to be a man with a

woman…

We can’t go to Japan

Come to Mexico!

On the escarpments the

Riotous vines

They seem a painter’s

Colors booming like

Rousseau was there

His life was dazzled

At Chita we had a few day’s piano and I had a raging

Five days stopover because of b

We spent it with Monsieur Iae that calm interior the father’s

me his only daughter in daughter who would come each

Then the train took off again.

And amputated limbs dance tulip trees are in bloom

raucous air tresses

Fire was on all the faces in alette and brushes

Idiot fingers rapped on all the ngs

And in the press of fear glance

In all the stations where all the

And I saw

Sleep

I would so have liked to sleep camels

I can identify all the countri more than 500 kilometers

closed it’s all I saw

And I can identify all the train

______________________________ 

Cut up of “Prose of the Transsiberian and of Little Jeanne of France”, by Blaise Cendrars

Thomas D'Arcy McGee at Cote des Neiges Cemetery

A Fountain at the Jardin Botanique, Montreal

The Window at Natalie's Hat Shop on Decarie Boulevard, Montreal

The importance of this photo isn't evident in the photograph itself. Here it is: after my father died my mother purchased a new hat for the funeral at Natalie's Hat Shop facing Decarie Boulevard. The viewer couldn't have known this, which is, after all important to the reason why this photograph is included here. There is more to the story, including poems I wrote about the hat and what became of the hat. Also, that Natalie, the hat shop's owner, later lived at one of Hoolahan's flats on Oxford Avenue; in fact, she lived in the flat next to where we had formerly lived... so there is quite a bit of synchronisty to this.

The Vehicule Poets in 2002

Artie Gold (SM in background).

Endre Farkas.

Tom and Marlene Konyves.

From left: CZ, Stephen Morrissey, Artie Gold, Endre Farkas, Tom Konyves.

Photographs taken at a Chinese restaurant on the corner of St. Denis and Sherbrooke Street West in Montreal.